Craft is about style

SUMITA GHOSE

THIS year the arid desert regions of Rajasthan were blessed with adequate and timely rainfall. For the most part, farmers were harvesting a good crop. Which means that artisans we work with have less time for weaving and embroidery. We are aware that this may lead to delays in delivery deadlines. And we have to come up with a Plan B. At Rangsutra we are constantly navigating, trying to find a balance between the demands of the market, on the one hand, and supply side realities of the producers, the artisans who make products, on the other.

So, what is our Plan B?

First, to change the timings of work. Working in the fields is best done in the early morning, before the sun gets too strong. Some younger farmer-artisans work in their fields from five to nine in the morning, return home, and get to the craft centres around 11 am, and then work, if necessary, till five to six in the evening. Those who work till later are male artisans who do not have much work at home in the evenings. Most housework is done by women. As farming and embroidery work is very different, it does not get too taxing. The first is a workout for the body and the second exercises the hands, improving dexterity, with focus and repetitions calming the mind.

Secondly, we reach out to other artisans. And there are many. Of course, they would need practice sessions, which they are fine with doing as we provide the fabric and thread. But the big challenge is the lack of workspaces in villages. Giving artisans the pieces to take home is not a solution. In the past we did that, resulting in dirty pieces, incorrect embroidery, lost pieces, to name a few of the problems we faced.

Having designated workspaces for village women is essential if we wish to move ahead and showcase the intricate textile craft skills they still possess to the world. Sure, working at home, they will continue to make a few items for their own use, to give as gifts, and so on, but it will remain a hobby. Those who wish to take crafts ahead as a skill and profession need to come to a workplace where they can hone their skills, learn new skills, teach others, create new designs, and understand the needs of the changing market.

Social enterprises, including crafts and creative enterprises, already play a significant role in enabling millions of women to find expression for their talent and provide much needed income for themselves and their families. With some more help from the establishment and local government, less red tape, help from organizations working on the ground, and from large market players, both domestic and global, the positive impact could be much more. The choice need not be between agriculture and non-farming livelihoods. There is time and a need for both — agriculture for the family’s own needs and sale of surplus if created, and crafts for earning income needed for other expenses in today’s world. It can be a good, healthy balance, preferable to migrating to crowded towns and cities and eking out a living as a construction worker.

An effective solution would be investment in infrastructure and appropriate equipment for the craft and handloom sector. There are government programmes for this, but they do not reach remote regions of the country, where they are most required. Infrastructure would include warehouses for storing raw materials and finished goods, well-lit and properly ventilated workspaces, access to piped potable water, and toilets. It wouldn’t cost much. About `12 lakh to 15 lakh, including solar panels for lights and fans. This would enable 50 to 100 women to come and work.

Will the market and customer also understand the needs of the producer-artisan? That she is busy with harvesting and therefore the order may be delayed? Unlikely, and unrealistic to even consider this because there are deadlines and products should be in stores in time for Diwali or Christmas. This, too, is totally understandable.

The answer lies in not catering to ever-changing fashion trends, but creating, crafting slowly and with care, products that can last a lifetime, like the saris that were passed down from one generation to the next, between siblings and friends, with no problem of body types and shapes. Or soft cotton saris that were regenerated into quilts or kanthas as they wore out. For practical, everyday wear the eternal kurta and kaftan silhouettes which adapt to our bodies, instead of the other way round. Catering to a new lifestyle — comforting yet vibrant.

“Each piece crafted by our artisans carries more than just fabric — it holds their story, skill and dreams.…when you wear one of our artisan’s creations, you are not just wearing something beautiful, you are carrying their journey, their passion, and a piece of their world,” states Rangsutra.

As someone said: “Fashion changes from season to season. Style is deeper, eternal, it is an expression of who you are, without having to speak.”

Sumita Ghose is founder-director of Rangsutra Crafts