Respect for each other

SUMITA GHOSE

THE idea for Rangsutra came to me during a year-long sabbatical in 2001-02. It was a much needed sabbatical, as I had recently experienced some traumatic events. In 1997, my husband and colleague, Sanjoy Ghose, was abducted and killed by the United Liberation Front of Asom (ULFA), a terrorist group in Assam. His loss was catastrophic for my family, our colleagues and me, raising many questions to which I found no answers in the external, material world.

This led me to the Gnostic Centre, dedicated to the understanding and practice of Integral Yoga as taught by Sri Aurobindo and the Mother. Here, I learned to calm my scattered mind and gained practical tools to live a centred life, responding less to external circumstances and more to what was within. This journey helped me cope with the immense tragedy and, in time, move beyond it and find meaning and purpose in life again.

In 2001, I received a Fulbright Scholarship for Conflict Transformation at Eastern Mennonite University in the US. The programme encouraged looking at conflict as an opportunity for transformation, aiming to balance unequal power dynamics between individuals, groups, communities, and nations. I was inspired to explore ways of reducing the growing inequalities between urban and rural India.

 Urban Indians had better access to education, healthcare, and employment. An introduction to Appreciative Inquiry provided another perspective: envisioning and designing a better, more inclusive world based on strengths and opportunities.

This is where the idea of Rangsutra was born. Through my work with artisans, particularly handloom weavers and hand embroiderers, I knew they were highly skilled — often self-taught by observing and learning from their elders. Growing up in urban India, I also understood that many urban Indians appreciated and wore handwoven, handcrafted garments.

Thus, Rangsutra came into existence in 2006, without any formal feasibility studies or business plans. Inspired by Amul, I borrowed their tagline: “Respect for the producer and respect for the customer.” We added “respect for each other”, emphasizing the importance of teamwork.

From the start, our guiding principles were rooted in empowerment rather than a beneficiary or transactional approach. My experience with the beneficiary model showed that it often led to dependency, while the transactional approach left artisans with little control over pricing or bargaining. An empowerment approach recognizes that all individuals have the power within to live a life with purpose.

They need opportunities and access to knowledge and resources to make a meaningful contribution to society through their work. This focus on empowerment led to many discussions with artisan groups and community-based organizations working on rural livelihoods, as we prepared to register the organization. 

Being denied even a small loan from banks because of our lack of experience in running a business, and because we could not provide collateral for the loan, with some amount of hesitation we asked artisans I had worked with previously at the URMUL Trust in Rajasthan to invest in Rangsutra. I was surprised that they agreed, and that laid the foundation for a community-owned social enterprise.

One thousand artisans became first-time shareholders in Rangsutra, putting in `1,000 each. This investment came with an aspiration to improve their craft and elevate it to a new level. They would no longer only weave blankets or embroider wedding gifts for their daughters but would also create garments and home furnishings which reached towns and cities across India and the world.

Aware of the faith and trust the artisans had shown by investing their very scarce monetary resources in the venture,  I felt an immense sense of responsibility to also put my money where my mouth was. I borrowed small amounts from friends and family to match the contributions of the artisans. We received support from angel investors Fabindia and Aavishkaar.

As shareholders, artisans ensured work for many months of the year, generating consistent income. In addition to their wages, they received dividends from the company’s profits. Although the shares were initially small, their value has increased substantially over time.

This shift also created a new sense of value for artisans, especially women, who make up 75 percent of our current shareholders. As one artisan in Pugal, Bikaner, said, “This share certificate is my only asset. I’ve framed it because it’s the only document with my name on it — our home is in my husband’s name, and the fields we cultivate are in my father-in-law’s name.”

Opening bank accounts in the women artisans’ names was also a first for many, giving them control over their money and encouraging a habit of saving for future goals, such as assets or education. The income and interactions with other women in craft centres as well as workshops organized by Rangsutra have helped broaden their horizons. They now feel connected to a larger community of buyers and customers.

At Rangsutra, important decisions we make centre around people — artisans, the team and customers — and the planet. Of course profitability is important as we wish to grow, but it is not the sole purpose of our organization. We try to be the change we want to see in the world and show that there is a way of conducting our business such that it benefits and creates value for all along the chain, and not just a few.

Sumita Ghose is founder-director of Rangsutra Crafts